We spent the day exploring the city of Porto, Portugal. This is a really interesting city, and one that we would definitely suggest coming to check out for at least a day or two if you are in Portugal. Not only is it drop dead gorgeous, really striking in its beauty, but it also has a great character and feel to it. There is a grittiness to Porto, a feeling of true authenticity. Everything is very local and almost old-fashioned. The city is a bit run down, but that is part of what gives it its unique character. This is not a polished city, definitely not Paris or Barcelona, and that makes it all the more interesting.
There are a few must-see sights, and we hit almost all of them in one day. We walked through an incredible old book store, Livraria Lello, with beautiful dark wood paneled walls, a stained glass skylight and a Gaudi-esque staircase winding it's way up through the center of the store. No pictures are allowed, but that didn't stop us from sneaking a few....After that we checked out the big Cathedral overlooking the river, with a peaceful cloister lined with intricately painted blue and white tiles. This is a very hilly city and you should be prepared to huff and puff your way through touring. (Luckily there is a Funicular and a cable car to take you from top to bottom!)
You must walk across the Dom Luis bridge to get the best views of the city, and to get to the other side of the river where the Port wine factories are located. And a river boat tour is a great way to see Porto's 6 famous bridges, including one built by the firm of Gustave Eiffel, years before the Eiffel tower.
We had a delicious and punishing lunch at Verso em Pedra, where we bravely consumed the francesinha, a famous local sandwich consisting of ham, sausage AND steak pressed between two thick slices of bread, smothered in melted cheese and bathed in a thick spicy beer-spiked tomato soup. We recommend sharing one "sandwich" between 2 people -- no one person should face this alone. Although it is obviously super delicious.
Dinner on the other hand was a bit bizarre and a little upsetting. Through my research, I had discovered a restaurant called Mariazinha which sounded amazing. A tiny place with a prix fixe "chef's choice" menu based on market fresh ingredients, with a husband and wife chef team. When I tried to make a reservation I learned the restaurant had moved to Matosinhos, an area about 15 minutes outside of Porto, supposedly famous for its abundance of excellent, authentic local fish restaurants.
Matt wanted to turn back when our cab pulled up outside the new Mariazinha, but I insisted we persevere. The restaurant was located in a parking lot/strip mall, in a totally abandoned industrial area that looked as if it had just been through some kind of zombie apocalypse. Every building in the neighborhood seemed to be abandoned and decrepit, only the faint howling of lost dogs could be heard in the distance. Occasionally an empty tram would whir past us but never stop.
OK, maybe I'm embellishing a little, but seriously it was creepy there!
Oddly, the restaurant itself was nice enough, as if completely oblivious to the scene surrounding it. The food was good too, but there was no prix fixe menu, just a regular old selection of typical Portuguese dishes. To make matters worse, the waiter didn't speak a lick of English and the menu was in Portuguese so it was all a big guessing game.
My shellfish rice stew was great, as was Matt's grilled swordfish but it would've had to have been French Laundry-esque to justify the trip out to this desolate place. Absolutely do not go here, even if reviews say it's the best restaurant ever. Stay away.